Friday, May 22, 2009

Hmm, how do they do it?

Sometimes I just can´t figure out how some of these peregrinos are doing this camino with such apparent ease. Dayton and I can start out an hour before anyone else, walk for two hours and then see a couple of the pilgrims who stayed at the same alberque as us, who were still sleeping when we left and there they are, sitting at a cafe having a café con leche. And to add insult to injury, some of them taking a smoke break! We´ll go on ahead and, before you know it, there they are again sitting at a taberna having beer and bocadillos and we´re still plodding along sharing a banana and an apple on the go. How could they possibly get in front of us! I think there´s a bus somewhere.

Yesterday from Samos to Ferreiros was tediously slow. We walked the same amount of time as the day before but covered 5km less, barely 3.5km an hour. Today, Friday May 22, with the help of 3 (650mg) Tylenol, 2-3 Advils, a chocolate croissant, 2 lemonades and fairly co-operative and kind terrain I busted through 35.5 kms from Ferreiros to Palas de Rei. We did not intend to go this far but none of the alberques we passed were open so we just kept going. Fortunately, the municipal alberque in Palas de Rei was full and we are again in a private alberque above a restaurant/bar and it´s great; roomy and clean and comfortable.

We went out to the traditional pilgrims´meal with Ingelise (from Denmark) and Emilio ( a recently retired Spanish high school Music and English teacher). As we were having dessert, the owner came over and poured whisky over all our Galacian tart/cake. Very good. Emilio also introduced Dayton to a very potent Spanish after-dinner drink. It was sort of like the Spanish equivalent of Greek Ouzo or German Schnapps or maybe Jack Daniels. Whatever it is called it was good and potent. Of course, Dayton operates under the assumption that if one of anything is good then two must be better and in Emilio he found a kindred spirit. So while the men were indulging in their second shot, Ingelise and I headed back to the alberque. About a half hour later two very happy pilgrims returned to the alberque.

Santiago is in sight. Three or four days to go.

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